Hi everyone!
Been shooting the CMP Rimfire Sporter matches for 5 years and while they are fun I'm fed full up with trying to make ordinary rifles shoot. I've practised on the NRA 23 target a lot with some fine old rifles, Win 52, Rem 40X, BSA MK4 etc but these are becoming too collectable. I had the opportunity and took it, buying an Anschutz 1913-2213 a couple of weeks back. Sweet rifle. So...
The NRA rule book states the rifle has to be able to lift a 3 lb weight with the trigger. Next paragraph presents any rifle and never mentions trigger weight. My 1913 can't be cranked up to anywhere near 1 lb. let alone 3 lbs. So...what's the rule on trigger weight? The rule book says something about the least restrictive rules apply but I need to hear the straight dope from those who do it.
I've got the rifle, I've got the clothes, I've got the ammo, I got it all. So what's next? Can it be as simple as find a match, sign the paper, pay the fee and shoot? I do tend to complicate the obvious. I know how to sign up for the matches at Camp Perry, I'd like to get a few under my belt before that.
Finally, is there any guideline for setting up and adjusting the 2213 stock? At the moment I figure you just fiddle around til it feels right.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Nearly all NRA matches are fired under rule 3.2 (any rifle) so you need only have a safe trigger (doesn't go off by itself if bumped). Rule 3.1 (3 pound trigger) used to be used a lot for junior shooting, but has pretty much go by the wayside.
You have it right for getting started in competition. Just go sign up and shoot. You'll get a temporary score book at your first match to establish your classification, and eventually will get classification cards from NRA.
Setting up a fully adjustable rifle is lots easier if you have help. See if you can find a club or instructor in your area, or at least another shooter using similar equipment. If not, start with length of pull (ROUGH rule of thumb is butt in crook of elbow and finger reaching the trigger), then find forend stop position. Next loosen buttplate and get into position allowing tit to slide up/down and horizontally/clockwise till comfortable, and lock things down. Write all the settings down in your diary. This can all be done with no sights on the rifle. Now add sights and get into postion with your eyes closed. Settle into position, then open your eyes, WITHOUT moving your head, look straight ahead and see if you are looking at anything other than straight through the hole in the rear aperture.; if so adjust the cheekpiece to move your head so you are looking straight through the aperture when you have settled into position then open your eyes.
After all this (in each position you will be using) you will have a good starting point for making future (small) changes.
Everything needs to be noted in your shooter's diary for easy replication.
That rule for trigger weight has to be form the sporter rifle rulebook.
As for stock setup, if you can manage to find someone that has a similar rifle and have them help you out, that would go a long way. It's hard to tell you how to set it up over the internet. My only suggestion would be to set it similar to whatever you have been shooting, and then start to make minor adjustments from there, only changing one thing at a time.
For the trigger weight issue, as stated there are two rules, 3.1 (The Rifle) and 3.2 (Any Rifle). If a Match Director is doing his or her job in the Match Bulletin where there are choices it should be stated "Rifle: Rule 3.2 Any Rifle will apply" or some such verbage like that. The other common choice is metallic or any sights (rule 3.7). Having said that I have not seen a 3 pound trigger rule since some time in the late 1970s. If you decide you need (not likely) a 3 pound trigger for your anschutz you will need to get a complete different trigger assembly. Or at least Anschutz used to have replacement trigger assemblies for higher pull weights. Have not checked to see if such is still available. All this is based on the idea that the tournament is being run under NRA rules.
Yeah, it is really hard to tell someone how to set up a free rifle with a few, or several lines on a web forum. You probably realize these rifles are so adjustable it is easy to get yourself into trouble fast.
The starting advice, place hand on grip and butt should come to bend of elbow is a basic start. This distance is called pull length. Consider that for prone the pull length should likely be longer than the baseline and for offhand it should be shorter and for kneeling, somewhere between the two but likley closer to offhand setting.
For the buttplate the general rule is above the neutral point for prone, often just a little below the neutral point for kneeling and down for offhand. This will depend on things like the length of your neck and width of your shoulders. Do look up rule 3.15 for maximum limits on location of the butt plate/butt hook. The modern ones are so adjustable it is pretty easy to get them adjusted outside of the rules.
For offhand and kneeling, did you get yourself some riser blocks for the sights? Many shooters use them in offhand and kneeling. Helps to lower the CG of the rifle more into the ribcage.
Go over to the ISSF website and there are usually plenty of good pictures to study of smallbore and air rifle shooters in the prone and standing positions, regrettably kneeling does not get pictured very much. Gotta figure if those shooters are in World Cup and Olympic competition their positions are pretty state of the art.
Oh yeah, the advice, get the shoulder fit up and see where the fore end stop wants to be is sound. Do keep in mind that if you make the pull length longer often you will want to move the handstop back and if you make the pull length shorter you will push the handstop forward. Once you are basically comfortable moving the handstop for and aft 0.5 to 1 cm at a time can help to tighten groups and bring in fliers.
Good advice all around. I expect I can learn to manage the light trigger. Ah-Choo BANG!
I purchased the rifle from Champion Shooters in New Albany OH. It's a couple of hours away and they've always been helpful. I'll ply them with donuts and I'll bet they'll help me set up the stock.
The range I use is open tomorrow and though it will be cold I don't think I can resist popping a few.
Thanks everyone.
presidentg wrote:
Good advice all around. I expect I can learn to manage the light trigger. Ah-Choo BANG!
I purchased the rifle from Champion Shooters in New Albany OH. It's a couple of hours away and they've always been helpful. I'll ply them with donuts and I'll bet they'll help me set up the stock.
The range I use is open tomorrow and though it will be cold I don't think I can resist popping a few.
Thanks everyone.
president,
From your other posts you have the 1913 action in the 2213 stock. Nice setup, I am a little jealous but not motivated to part with the cash to fix my jealousy so I guess I will just have to have some range time therapy with what I've got to get over that. : )
Being a bit more serious here, the 1913 action should have come with a #5018 trigger. (2-stage, probably about 100 grams from the factory.) You have made some comments that for you the trigger is awfully light. Did you buy this new so you have the manual or used where mayby you have the manual? I ask this as the Anschutz provides pretty detailed instructions for working with their triggers. For the #5018 if the general tension adjustment is not enough you can move what anschutz calls the "trigger cam" or "cam" to move the tension range of the trigger. Movement of the cam changes the ratio of the lever arms between the trigger lever and the sear thus changing the tension range. Moving the cam further up on it's rail will increase the tension range. Note if you do this you should expect to have to also adjust the sear engagement (sets proper relation between the 1st and 2nd stages) when you are done. If you don't have the manual they are available for download from Anschutz. If you are not confident messing about with your trigger then find someone who can help you with that. A poorly adjusted trigger is at best an annoying detriment at worst... DANGEROUS. Don't want to scare you, but just caution you.
Something else to try, Anschutz provides a little wire clip that goes around the trigger lever so you can alway get your finger back in the same spot each shot. I ditched the wire clip and use a piece of copper wire (about 20 or 22 gauge). It is a bit thicker and easier to feel. (I work bunches with my hands so skin is thick).
Also, when you do the the stock set up, recall that you change so do not be afraid to try moving adjustments as you change and get more comfortable and familar with the rifle. Also, just because you have a great day with some adjustment in a particular place does not mean that is where it belongs forever. More than once I have asked a junior "why do you have X in that spot?" Answer "Oh two years ago I had there there and I shot the best Y ever in my life." That is also the wrong answer. If things have not improved after two years it is time to experiment a bit.
